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Staged under pulsing strobe lights, the show suggested Theyskens was plenty familiar with the minimalist vocabulary of his Belgian forebears (there were Margiela-isms in the suiting), but it was Theyskenss flair for the dramatic, notably his way with a hook and eye, that had everyone rapt

Just to really show off how delicate the detailing was

In 2012, the then New York Times fashion editor Cathy Horyn described his 2012 collection in damning terms, saying: Mr De la Renta is far more a hot dog than an minence grise of American fashion. In bombastic fashion, he bought a full page advert in the trade sheet WWD to publish his retort: If you have the right to call me a hot dog, why do I not have the right to call you a stale three-day old hamburger? For her part, Horyn said that she meant hot dog as in showman rather than as a derisory comment